Building my RS-CNC

[Lootgeier]

First of all im slowly building cause of lag of time.
I have my Spindle/Router (Makita R0700 Clone from "Anesty" its called "Oberfräse Multifräse R0700 Trimmer Kantenfräse Fräse 710W Holzfräse für Makita" on ebay.de
Im now printing some parts that dont need to be stiff out of white PLA and waiting for my neon yellow PETG.
I ordered one RS-CNC shield. I still dont know what to use for the 100x18mm Aluminium. There are so many possibilities for that.
First i thought about 100x18mm Full Aluminium flat material (ca. 45€/m) then i found hollow Aluminium structure that looks like a "8" with 100x18mm for ca. 14€/m but the wall is 1,2mm thin so not really rigid. Then i thought about 100 x 18 x 2,0mm SquareTube which has thicker walls but has no middle bridge for ca. 13€/m.
Then i thought about Steel Tube 100x20x2mm (so i would have to wait till the EU-Version comes out) 22,39€/m but its definitely rigid and would work.
All in all i would love to get suggestions cause i never build a CNC just used some Industrial ones at work.
What did you use and how did it work out?
Any tips or suggestions?
How about a Vice for milling? Anyone used one and has suggestions on mounting it? I thought about inserting WoodenNuts into the MDF plate so i can fix my Workpiece everywhere and maybe add an Aluminium Extrusion Plate with T-Slots if i use the CNC often so i could add watercooling to the MillingBit. But that Aluminium Extrusionplate would be about 300€ ! So not gonna happen soon.

Feel free to reply and share your thoughts and Builds. Maybe we can even get a Z-Probe working (just a button to put on top of the workpiece that gets pushed when the Z moves down).

[Kachidoki]

Hi,
About the aluminium, I think the best is the "8" shaped one. The stiffness is not based on the material, but on the geometry. So it's the best compromise.
You can also print some parts to fit at the edges (like I have done here) in order to avoid to squeeze the tube while tightening the screws.

[Lootgeier]

Thanks for your Answer. I will try the Aluminium 8-Extrusion. We use it as Guide/Level-Tool normally so its easy and cheap to get.

I want to build my own Z-Axis Probe (just a closed Loop thing) and does anybody know if i need more than two contact points (one the "Button" and second an Alligator Clip on the Endmill/Router)? It would be easy to make just a piece of round aluminium that gets isolated at the bottom (even Tape would work but i will make it more elegant cause i can :p).

And i got my RS-CNC Shield today (ordered 2.July. in the morning, delivered 5. July) and i wish i could solder that clean.
The Relay was easy to solder (just 4 pins and not reverseable) it has enought room to the other parts so every beginner can do it.
The Nunchuk sits on quiet tightly so it wont get loose. I would call that a perfect fit.

Im really starting to have fun planing how to improve some stuff cause i would love to get watercooling on the MillingBit for working with Aluminium.

[Kachidoki]

Are you talking about a Z-axis probe like this one?

[Lootgeier]

Yeah exacly like that but i want to turn and mill it my self so i know that it is perfectly Level and cause i can.

Today i will go to my local Buildingmaterial Shop and search for the "Hardware" like the MDF Plate and smooth rods.

[lowvo]

Hello Lootgeier,
What you are looking for is called "Abziehlatte" or "Richtlatte" in German!

For example:

https://www.amazon.de/Sola-AL-1007-1-m/ ... la+AL+1007
https://www.amazon.de/Sola-AL-1009-1-m/ ... la+AL+1009

AL 1009 has more wall thickness.

EDIT: You may know about that already and just want an upgrade. Ignore my post in that case