I3-R Software

Download the IDE Arduino software

  1. Install the Arduino software
  2. Install the U8glib library :
  • Go to Sketch > Include library> Manage libraries and search “U8glib” and install them
  • Close Arduino software

Download the Marlin firmware for your I3-R hardware configuration:


  • Unzip and open by clicking Marlin-I3R-EN > Marlin-I3-R > Marlin > Marlin.ino
  • Plug the Ramps 1.4 into a USB port on your computer, either it recognizes the card and installs the driver, or you’ll have to look for the driver corresponding to your card, indeed, the chip making the gateway between USB and serial communication varies From one manufacturer card to another, you have to find the right driver.
  • Once the driver is installed, in the Arduino software, go to Tools> Boards, and select “Mega 2560”
  • Then Tools> Port, and select the port of your card.
  • Upload the firmware by clicking on . This may take a little time.

Note: The firmware is provided for a certain configuration: 1.8 ° motors, pulleys 16 teeth, leadscrews with 1mm pitch and microsteps set in 1 / 16th step. If your configuration differs, you’ll need to change the values at the “#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT” line on the Configuration.h tab. To help you, you can use this calculation tool.

Now we will download the Repetier Host software and the Slic3r basic configuration file for the I3-R.

  • Install Repetier Host
  • Open it and go to the right to the “slicer” tab, check that “Slic3r” is selected and click on “configuration”
  • The Slic3r window has opened, click “File” then “Load Config Bundle” and point to the configuration file you unzipped.
  • Close the Slic3r window and in Repetier, go to Configuration> Printer Setup, select the correct COM port and then “Apply”.
  • Also in the “Printer Settings” window, go to the “Printer Shape” tab and fill in as follows, then OK


  • Click on the “Connect” icon on the left, it must become green.

We will now move our 3D printer axes ! To do this, “Manual control” tab. But above all, manually position each axis in the middle of the travel.

  • You have 3 sets of buttons, the left control X and Y, the middle Z, and the right one the extruder.


  • When you click down on the left button set, the tray (Y) must move backward from the value in mm you have clicked and vice versa.
  • When you click to the right, the extruder (X) must go to the right of the value in mm that you clicked.
  • Same with Z on the middle button set
  • And the same for the extruder, but it does not work until the print nozzle reaches 170 °.
  • Also test the printing fan by clicking on the fan icon a little lower, similar for the heating head and the heating bed

Note: If one of the motors does not rotate in the correct direction, simply turn its plug 180 ° on the Ramps 1.4

Now that we have tested everything, there is one last detail to adjust before you can spit plastic … the height adjustment of the inductive sensor! It’s a bit tedious, but afterwards we’ll no touch it a little longer!

  • Manually, touch the heatbed with the nozzle
  • Rotate the sensor in its thread and turn it to the thickness of 3 paper sheets placed on the heatbed (equivalent to 3 / 10th of a millimeter)


  • Tighten the nuts a little

Note: This sensor type really does not have a wide range of detection, the lesser half millimeter won is good to take, on mine, I filed the plastic end until the metal appeared in transparency !

In order for the X axis to be parallel to the printing plate, I proceed as follows:

  • I put an object on the side of the tray and I manually lower the set by turning the trapezoidal screws until it touches.
  • When it touches on one side, I do the same on the other side
  • And I put my object on both sides to check.


We will test for the first time our 3 thrust sensors, click on the Home button in the form of a house always in the “manual control” tab of Repetier. Tip: Keep your finger on the emergency stop button next to the LCD knob when a sensor is incorrectly connected or the inductive sensor is too high compared to the nozzle!

Everything went well ? It’s finally time to do our first printing test!

  • To insert the filament, remove the screws with the extruder springs
  • Opening the flap
  • The end of the bevel filament is cut
  • The filament is passed through the hole at the top of the extruder
  • It is passed in front of the notched wheel into the teflon tube
  • It is pushed to the stop
  • Replace the screws with the springs

The 3D printer is ready! .. There is one last detail … Our file to print!

  • Download a .stl file, for example a calibration set
  • We unzip and open the desired file with Repetier
  • You can change the layout of the part on the tray (optional)
  • Then we go to the”Slicer”tab
  • The PLA or ABS preset is selected, “normal speed” print settings, “my settings” printer settings.
  • We click on “Slice whith Slic3r” and we automatically land on the “print preview” tab
  • Now we are ready to start printing, we have two solutions, either you do it with the printer connected to the computer by clicking directly on “Print” in the “Preview print” Tab, Either you click “Save “To save your .gcode file that you can put on an SD card that you insert on the left side of the LCD and you start printing from the LCD, so you don’t need to be connected to the computer 🙂

Here is how to initialize:

  • The heatbed rises in temperature.
  • Once the correct temperature has been reached, the 3 axes come to home.
  • The induction probe senses 9 points on the plate to know its “topography” at the same time as the head begins to heat.
  • Printing starts.

Note: As soon as the first material is deposited on the tray, make sure that the deposit is not too crushed, or not enough, if it is the case, cancel the printing immediately, if it is too crushed, A little the inductive sensor, if it is not crushed enough, you have to go up a little sensor.

Note2: The preset temperatures in the config file I have given you, are perfect for me, but the setting may vary depending on the filament marks and temperature probes.

Here ! We’re done ! If you are experiencing difficulties or require further adjustments, do not hesitate to ask questions about the forum 🙂

For any other non technical questions, you can contact me at romaker@makerfr.com

You can help me to translate in English, as you can see, my English is not perfect and you can copy the text, correct the translation and email me ! Thank you very much.

8 thoughts on “I3-R Software

  1. Bonsoir et bravo pour votre travail je suis vraiement interessé de faire cette machine étant utilisateur d’une dagoma je souhaite m’équiper d’une deuxième machine.
    La votre serai elle compatible mac je n’utilise que cette plateforme et ne souhaite pas utiliser de pc meme via boot camp
    Si oui merci de me le préciser et je ne manquerai pas des le mois prochain de faire l’achat des pièces imprimés de votre i3-R
    Bien à vous

    1. Merci pour les encouragements ! Pour faire tourner cette imprimante 3D, on a besoin de Repetier host et de Arduino, qui sont tous les deux dispos en version Mac 😉

  2. bonjour
    bravo pour l’imprimant.
    je suis novice et donc elle m’intéresse beaucoup, mais je n’ai jamais utiliser de logiciel de modalisation 3d. quel logiciel utiliser vous avec l’imprimante ?
    bien a vous

    1. Bonjour !
      On a pas besoin directement de logiciel de modélisation 3D pour imprimer en 3D, ça c’est seulement si l’on veut créer ses propres pièces.
      Pour imprimer des fichiers STL que l’on peut trouver tous faits sur http://www.thingiverse.com par exemple, on a juste besoin d’un logiciel “trancheur” et tout est expliqué sur cette page !

      1. merci pour les infos, et si l’on veut créer ses propres pieces, quel logiciel me conseillez vous sachant que je suis debutant dans ce domaine.
        bien a vous

  3. Bonjour J ai commencé les prints des différentes pièces et j ai vu sur la carte qu’à côté du connecteur du moteur de l extrudeur un autre était libre.
    Est il envisageable d’y mettre le moteur d un second moteur d extrudeur avec une chauffe commune ?

    1. Oui bien sûr, pour faire une imprimante bicolore avec une tête cyclops par exemple, il faut aussi modifier des paramètres dans Marlin pour activer le deuxième extrudeur et utiliser un logiciel de génération G-code pour la double extrusion.
      Je vais pas tarder à m’y pencher pour proposer de fabriquer une I3-R bicolore 😉

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