I3-R Assembly

Y axis assembly

Take the 205 and 243mm threaded rods and mount them without tightening, like this:

Do the same with the 355mm M10 threaded rods

And assemble them like this:

Tighten the M8 nuts on the corners, keeping a gap of 152mm between the plastic parts:

And tighten the M10 nuts keeping a space of 330mm between these points:

Tighten watching spaces between the plastic parts and mount the pulley surrounded in red:

Mount the motor with its pulley and the switch whose stem has been removed (the switch must be wired in “normally open”):

The side of the board with the big holes is the BOTTOM:

Mount the bearings and the belt blocker (be careful of the direction) but do not tighten the screws until it is mounted on the rails:

Pass the rails

And clip on the base, tighten the screws that hold the tray bearing and mount the belt (not too tight or too loose)

Make sure that the “click” of the switch is heard when the plate comes into abutment

Z axis assembly

Insert the frame into the large M10 washers and tighten with 100mm between the frame and the plastic parts. You must be on a flat surface, both the frame parts and the 4 Y pieces are all in contact with the ground.

Screw the Z pieces together making sure they are horizontal

On this black part, hole diameter 5 on the lower left must be tapped at M6 before assembly.

Screw the Z motors and pass the cables through the holes provided for this.

And put the couplers at the height of the plastic part

Screw the Z reinforcement

Insert the 358mm M6 threaded rod and tighten it at the top

Then at the bottom, check the perpendicularity of the frame with the ground before tightening permanently.

X axis assembly

Fit the 7 LM8UU bearings in their housings, screw the switch, the pulley loosely, and the brass rings of the leadscrews.

And nest the whole thing like this with the smooth rods of 360mm, Attention to the mounting direction

Pass the 320mm smooth rods through the top holes

Then the leadscrews, which you’ll not forget to tighten in each coupler, well in abutment on the axis of the Z motors.

Mount the X motor with its pulley

Power supply assembly

Solder the wires on the switch and the two metal parts surrounded in red

The + and – large section for the heating bed must be lined on the next contact to provide enough power (and must support 15A). The pair of small section wires is used to power the electronics and motors (must support 5A)

We nest the whole and we screw with the 3 screws M4x8, then we screw the module switch/plug with two screws M3 (no need of nuts)

Screw the power supply to the frame with two M4x12 screws

And behind at the bottom with 2 screws, 2 washers and 2 M3 nuts

Ramp 1.4 housing assembly

Screw the housing to the frame and screw the fan to the housing (label inward so that it blows into it)

Nest the stages of the Ramps.14 kit (and the drivers faders up)

And screw the ramps with 3 screws. (The best is to screw M3 screws into the holes to make the threads before mounting)

Extruder assembly

Before starting, check the correct tightening of the extruder heads, including the temperature probe, if it went away during printing, it could have disastrous consequences! Also put the bearing 625 on its axis and nest it as to the right of the image.

Insert M3 nuts into the hexagonal holes and into the two slots surrounded in red and in the two slots on the top of the extruder (not those in red cross). Put a piece of PTFE tube in the heating head, And cut off the PTFE that protrudes. Put the good in this position before continue.

Put the second part and screw the 2 screws.

We add the flap with the bearing and the motor that is screwed just with two screws at the moment.

We screw the 30mm fan

Then the inductive sensor (without tightening it as you will have to adjust it all at the end). The long screws with the springs and the clamping wheels (not on the picture)

Finally we finish with the radial fan

It is mounted on the X trolley with 3 M3 screws 20, 25 and 40mm long. Be careful to pass the cables in the right place.

A small zip ties and it’s good.

Heatbed assembly

Take the 4 Standoffs 6-32″ male and M3 female

And screw them into the aluminum using a socket wrench, screwing straight, be careful not to break the standoff! It’s a bit hard to do but once you get there you will never touch it again!

Solder the cables with a strong enough soldering iron as the aluminum mass prevents the temperature rise of the weld. For the 12V power supply, you must solder the + on pad 1 and the – on pads 2 and 3 at the same time.

We don’t forget to fix the temperature probe in the middle hole and it is fixed with kapton (high temperature tape). If you want to put a thermal insulation under the heatbed, it is advisable and it is the moment !

And we fix everything to the plate

LCD assembly

We insert laterally the supports of the LCD and connect the 50cm tablecloths (in fact it was necessary to put the connectors of the other end so that the cables go up, I was wrong on the picture)

Then first clip the support on the threaded rod M8 from the top and fold and clip on the bottom, and finally the cover and the rotary knob (not on the picture)

Installing the PEI sheet

The aluminum is cleaned with a glass product and the sheet is gradually glued, unwinding as you go, smoothing with a credit card.

Then cut the edges with the cutter

Here, the mechanical part is finished, it is time to wire

This tutorial is scalable, I’ll expand it according to the questions you will ask on the forum. You can also help me if you see any translation errors, my English is not perfect 😉

14 thoughts on “I3-R Assembly

    1. Bonjour !
      Toute la doc est là, et c’est déjà pas mal ! Si on veut le contenu hors ligne il faut se servir d’un aspirateur de site ou tout copier coller sous un éditeur de texte.

    1. Bonjour, Vous pouvez mettre une feuille de liège, je me suis servi de chutes d’isolant phonique à base de caoutchouc broyé , ou sinon un simple carré de carton alvéolé fait bien le job !

  1. Bonjour,
    Pour les poulies, vous dites de prendre la version b donc avec les dents, mais sur vos photos les poulies ressembles plus à la version A

    En tout cas beau travail !!

  2. Bonjour,
    A un moment dans le montage vous dites : “Mettez aussi le roulement 625 sur son axe” mais je ne vois pas cet axe dans la liste des pièces à acheter.
    Que faut-il comme axe ?

    Merci d’avance

  3. Bonjour.
    Je me lance et pas de chance, je tombe sur une tête d’extrudeur en rupture de stock chez Banggood alors que les caractéristiques que vous précisez “1.75 long” figurent explicitement sur la page à part peut être le diamètre de la buse, 0.3 ou 0.4 mm ? Chez AliExpress , les caractéristiques sont plus mystérieuses pour moi, ” 03 175mm 04 175mm 05 175 mm”. Sur cette page : https://fr.aliexpress.com/item/E3D-V6-long-distance-J-head-Hotend-for-1-75mm-3-0mm-E3D-Wade-Extruder-with/32760460966.html?aff_platform=link-c-tool&cpt=1497292561537&sk=yZRfuju&aff_trace_key=2fd495e4a8254a0fac6369dda89e76fa-1497292561537-04473-yZRfuju
    pouvez vous me dire laquelle des têtes je dois choisir et ce que signifie la caractéristique “long ” ?
    Merci beaucoup

  4. Hi

    Thanks for a great guide

    I intend to use a laser cutter to cut the frame from 6mm MDF.

    Is it important to have the countersunk holes (5.5mm) in the frame, or will just the 3mm ones all the way through be ok ?

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *